Admin
Life expectancy of household materials and components
|
ADHESIVES, CAULK AND PAINTS
|
YEAR
|
|---|---|
|
Caulking
|
5-10
|
|
Paint
|
7
|
|
Roofing Adhesives
|
15+
|
|
APPLIANCES
|
YEARS
|
|
--> Air-Conditioners
|
8-15
|
|
Boilers
|
20-35 |
|
Compactors
|
6
|
|
Dehumidifiers
|
8 |
|
Dishwashers
|
9 |
|
Disposers, Food waste
|
12 |
|
Dryers
|
13
|
|
Exhaust Fans
|
10
|
|
Freezers
|
10-20 |
|
Furnaces
|
15-25
|
|
Gas Ovens
|
10-18
|
|
Heat Pumps
|
16
|
|
Humidifiers
|
8 |
|
Microwave Ovens
|
9
|
|
Range/Oven Hoods
|
14
|
|
Electric Ranges
|
13-15
|
|
Gas Ranges
|
15-17
|
|
Refrigerators
|
9-13
|
|
Washing Machine
|
5 -15
|
|
Water Heaters
|
10-11
|
|
BATHROOM
|
YEARS
|
|
Cast Iron Bathtub
|
50
|
|
Fiberglass Bathtub and Shower
|
10-15
|
|
Shower Door
|
25
|
|
Toilet
|
50
|
|
CABINETRY & STORAGE
|
YEARS
|
|
Bath Cabinets
|
100+
|
| Closet Shelves | 100+ |
| Entertainment Centers/Home Office | 10 |
| Garage/Laundry Cabinets | 100+ |
| Kitchen Cabinets | 50 |
| Medicine Cabinets | 20+ |
|
Modular/Stock Manufacturing Type
|
50
|
|
CEILINGS, WALLS & FINISHES
|
YEARS
|
|
Acoustical Ceiling
|
100+
|
|
Ceiling Suspension
|
100+
|
|
Ceramic Tile
|
100+
|
| Standard Gypsum |
100+
|
|
COUNTERTOPS
|
YEARS
|
|
Cultured Marble
|
20
|
|
Natural Stone
|
100+
|
|
Laminate Countertops
|
20 - 30
|
|
Tile
|
100+
|
| Wood |
100+
|
|
DECKS
|
YEARS
|
|
Deck Planks
|
25
|
|
Wood
|
10-30
|
|
DOORS
|
YEARS
|
|
Closet (Interior)
|
100+
|
|
Fiberglass (Exterior)
|
100+
|
|
Fire-Rated Steel (Exterior)
|
100+
|
|
French (Interior)
|
30-50 |
| Screen (Exterior) |
40
|
| Vinyl (Exterior) | 20 |
|
Wood (Exterior)
|
100+
|
|
Wood (Hollow Core Interior)
|
20 - 30
|
|
Wood (Solid Core Interior)
|
30 - 100+
|
|
ENGINEERED LUMBER
|
YEARS
|
|
Engineered Trim
|
30
|
|
Laminated Strand Lumber
|
100+
|
|
Laminated Veneer Lumber
|
80+
|
|
Trusses
|
100+
|
|
FIXTURES & FAUCETS
|
YEARS
|
|
Accessible/ADA Products
|
100+
|
|
Enamel Steel Kitchen Sinks
|
5-10
|
|
Faucets
|
15-20
|
|
Modified Acrylic Kitchen Sinks
|
50
|
| Saunas/Steam Rooms |
15-20
|
|
Shower Enclosures/Modules
|
50
|
| Shower heads |
100+
|
|
Soapstone Kitchen Sinks
|
100+
|
| Toilets/Bidets |
100+
|
|
Whirlpool Tubs
|
20-50
|
|
FLOORING
|
YEARS
|
|
All Wooden Floors
|
100+
|
|
Bamboo
|
100+
|
|
Brick Pavers
|
100+
|
|
Carpet
|
8-10
|
|
Concrete
|
50+
|
|
Engineered Wood
|
50+
|
|
Exotic Wood
|
100+
|
|
Granite
|
100+
|
|
Laminate
|
15-25
|
|
Linoleum
|
25
|
|
Marble
|
100+
|
|
Other Domestic Wood
|
100+
|
|
Slate
|
100
|
|
Terrazo
|
75+
|
|
Tile
|
75-100
|
|
Vinyl
|
25
|
|
FOOTING & FOUNDATIONS
|
YEARS
|
|
Baseboard System
|
50
|
|
Bituminous Coating Waterproofing
|
10
|
| Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Above Ground) |
60+
|
|
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Below ground)
|
50 - 60
|
| Concrete Block |
100+
|
|
Concrete Waste Pipe
|
100 |
|
Poured Footings and Foundations
|
100+
|
|
Pumps, Sumps, and Wells
|
5-12
|
|
Termite Proofing
|
12
|
|
FRAMING & OTHER STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS
|
YEARS
|
| Poured-Concrete Systems |
100+
|
|
Structural Insulated Panels
|
100+
|
|
Timber Frame Homes
|
100+
|
|
GARAGES
|
YEARS
|
|
Garage Doors
|
20-25
|
|
Garage Door Openers
|
10-15
|
|
Light Inserts
|
20
|
|
HOME TECHNOLOGY
|
YEARS
|
|
Built-in Audio
|
20
|
|
Home Automation Systems
|
100+
|
| Security Systems |
5-10
|
|
Smoke/Heat Detectors
|
Less Than 10
|
|
Wireless Home Networks
|
50+
|
|
HVAC
|
YEARS
|
|
Air Conditioners
|
10-15
|
|
Air Quality Systems
|
15
|
|
Attic Fans
|
15 - 25
|
|
Boilers
|
13-21
|
|
Burners
|
10+ |
|
Central Air Conditioning Unite
|
12-15
|
|
Dampers
|
20+ |
|
Dehumidifiers
|
8
|
|
Diffusers, Grilles, and Registers
|
25 |
|
Ducting
|
10 |
|
DX, Water, Or Steam
|
20 |
|
Electric
|
15 |
|
Electric Radiant Heater
|
40
|
|
Furnaces
|
15-20 |
|
Heat Exchangers, shell + tube
|
10-15
|
|
Heat Pumps
|
16 |
|
Heat Recovery Ventilators
|
20 |
|
Hot Water or Steam Radiant Heater
|
40 |
|
Induction and Fan-Coil Units
|
10-15 |
|
Molded Insulation
|
100+ |
|
Shell and Tube
|
20
|
|
Thermostats
|
35 |
| Ventilators | 7 |
|
Water Heaters
|
20+
|
| INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS |
YEARS
|
|
Batts/Rolls
|
100+
|
|
Cellulose
|
100+
|
|
Fiberglass
|
100+
|
| Foam |
100+
|
|
House Wrap
|
100+
|
|
Loose Fill
|
100+
|
|
JOB SITE EQUIPMENT
|
YEARS
|
|
Ladders
|
100+ |
| Lifts |
8-10
|
|
LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL
|
YEARS
|
| Accessories |
10+
|
| Bare Copper |
100+
|
|
Copper Clad Aluminum
|
100+
|
| Copper Plated |
100+
|
|
Lighting Controls
|
10+
|
|
MASONRY & CONCRETE
|
YEARS
|
| Brick |
100+
|
|
Sealer Caulking
|
2-20
|
|
Stone
|
100+
|
| Veneer |
100+
|
|
MOLDING & MILLWORK
|
YEARS
|
|
Attic Stairs
|
100+
|
|
Custom Millwork
|
100+
|
|
Prebuilt Stairs
|
100+
|
|
Stair Parts
|
100+
|
| Stairs, Circular & Spiral |
100+
|
|
PANELS
|
YEARS
|
|
Flooring Underlayment
|
25
|
|
Hardboard
|
30
|
| Particleboard |
60
|
|
Plywood
|
60
|
|
Softwood
|
30
|
|
Oriented-Strand Board
|
60
|
|
Wall Panels
|
100+
|
|
ROOFING
|
YEARS
|
|
Aluminum Coating
|
3-7
|
|
Asphalt Shingles (3 - tab)
|
20
|
| Asphalt (Architectural) |
30
|
|
BUR (Built-up Roof)
|
30
|
|
Clay/Concrete
|
100+ |
|
Coal and Tar
|
30
|
|
Copper
|
100+
|
|
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) Rubber
|
15 - 25
|
|
Fiber Cement
|
25 |
|
Metal
|
40 - 50
|
|
Modified Bitumen
|
20
|
| Simulated Slate |
50
|
|
Slate
|
50+
|
| TPO |
7 - 20
|
|
Wood
|
30 |
|
SIDING & ACCESSORIES
|
YEARS
|
|
Aluminum Downspouts
|
30
|
|
Aluminum Gutters
|
20
|
|
Aluminum/Interior Shutters
|
10+
|
|
Brick
|
100+
|
|
Copper Downspouts
|
100
|
|
Copper Gutters
|
50+
|
|
Engineered Wood
|
100+
|
|
Fiber Cement
|
100+
|
|
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
|
20
|
|
Manufactured Stone
|
100+
|
| Soffits/Fascias |
50
|
| Stone |
100+
|
| Stucco |
50 - 100
|
| Trim |
25
|
| Vinyl | 100+ |
| Wood/Exterior Shutters | 20 |
| Wood/Interior Shutters | 15+ |
|
SITE & LANDSCAPING
|
YEARS
|
|
American Red Clay
|
100+
|
|
Asphalt Driveway
|
15-20
|
|
Asphalt with Acrylic Coating or Cushion
|
12-15
|
|
Brick & Concrete Patios
|
15-25
|
|
Clay Paving
|
100+ |
|
Cleaning Equipment(Swimming Pool)
|
7-10 |
|
Coating
|
5-7 |
|
Concrete Shell (Swimming Pool)
|
25+ |
|
Concrete Walks
|
40- 50
|
|
Controllers
|
15
|
| Decking(Swimming Pool) |
15
|
| Fast-Dry Green Tennis Court | 100+ |
| Fast-Dry with Subsurface |
100+
|
|
Gravel Walks
|
4-6
|
|
Interior Finish( Swimming Pool)
|
10-35
|
| Polyvinyl Fences | 100+ |
| Sprinklers | 10-14 |
| Underground PVC Piping | 60+ |
|
Valves
|
20 |
|
Waterline Tile ( Swimming Pool)
|
10
|
|
SKYLIGHTS & WINDOWS
|
YEARS
|
|
Aluminum/Aluminum Clad
|
15-20
|
| Window Glazing | 10+ |
|
Vinyl Windows
|
20 - 40
|
|
Wood
|
30+
|
Inspecting for defects in older buildings
- Lead is a toxic metal that was once commonly used in the manufacture of household paint and plumbing fixtures, and as an additive to gasoline. While it has long been prohibited in new construction, lead-based paint and plumbing that weren't removed may present a significant health hazard. Homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint, which can be ingested by small children or contaminate surrounding soil and vegetable gardens. It is easily identifiable by its alligator-like flaking pattern. Lead pipes, too, were used in homes up until the late 1940s, and they may allow lead to leach into drinking water. They can be identified by their dull gray color and the ease by which they can be scratched by keys or coins.
- Asbestos insulation, which can increase the chances of developing lung cancer and mesothelioma, was used in homes between 1930 and 1950. Asbestos insulation should be left undisturbed until it can be removed by a qualified professional, as its fibers can be inhaled when they are airborne, creating a significant health hazard.

- Older homes were not constructed to meet modern energy efficiency requirements. They may suffer thermal losses from single-pane windows, insufficient or compressed insulation, leaking ductwork, and inefficient heaters and other appliances. It should be noted, however, that older homes better capitalize on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation through the use of design features such as exterior shutters, shade trees, and thick, heat-retaining masonry walls.
- Buried oil tanks were often abandoned and forgotten after homes switched to newer fuel sources. Today, these tanks pose a safety hazard to homeowners and their neighbors, as their contents may leak into surrounding soil. Disposal guidelines vary and may call for removal of the tank or filling it with sand or gravel. Soil testing may be required to investigate whether an abandoned fuel tank has leaked underground.
- Obsolete electrical components pose a fire and safety hazard, such as:
- aluminum wiring. From about 1965 to 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes used in place of copper branch-circuit wiring in residential electrical systems due to the escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, weaknesses were discovered in the metal, which led to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. It can be identified by its color or the labels “CO/ALR,” “aluminum” and “AL”;
- knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring. This was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings from about 1880 to the 1940s. While codes do not require its removal, K&T wiring often suffers from unsafe modifications, old age, overheating, and lack of a ground wire. It can be identified by its characteristic porcelain insulating tubes;
- a lack of ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Homes built before the 1970s may not have been equipped with GFCI protection, which guards against overloads, short circuits and ground faults; and
- a lack of grounded receptacles, which provide a safe path to ground for stray electrical current. Most major appliances, such as stoves, refrigerators and computers, have three-prong plugs and require three-slot or grounded receptacles. Homes in the U.S. built before 1962 were not constructed with three-slot receptacles.
- Wells, cesspools and septic tanks were commonly used before homes and buildings were connected to public sewer and water systems. If they were abandoned and not removed, these elements pose hazards related to their deterioration and collapse.

- Radon is a naturally occurring gas that has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It usually enters the home through cracks in the foundation, a common problem found in vintage construction. Radon cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so concerned homeowners should consult with their InterNACHI inspector about radon testing during their next scheduled inspection.
What Really Matters in a Home Inspection
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
sources of moisture.
- venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;
- using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
- increasing ventilation;
- and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
prevent mold growth.
materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent
condensation).
moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
Feel free to download this page of tips in a printer-friendly PDF format. Realtors can reproduce it and
make it part of your real estate information packet.
How To Prepare For a Home Inspection
When you are in the inspection process of your home buying transaction, there are several items that need to be done before the inspection. In this article I am going to list and explain these items for a seller, buyer, and real estate agent. With this information you will be more prepared for your home inspection, thereby helping the inspector perform a more thorough and complete home inspection.
Home Sellers
Let’s start off with the sellers’ inspection. Many homeowners today are having their homes inspected before they are put on the market. This is a very savvy marketing tool to help your home sell quicker and more profitably. For your home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.
- If it happens to be winter and you are in a cold climate zone, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow. An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
- Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode. Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
- Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way. You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
- I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing. However, please make the inspector will be able access windows, doors, electrical outlets and be able to see the walls and foundation.
Home Buyers
Now, if you are a buyer, your list will be a little shorter. But, it is still just as important to do your homework. You are paying for the inspection, so stay on top of everything.
- Once you call the inspector and set a date and time, call your real estate agent and verify this time. Some inspectors do this for you and some don’t. If this is a vacant foreclosure or bank owned property, find out who you need to contact in order to get ALL utilities turned on and into normal operation mode. Again, inspectors will not turn these items on for you at the time of the inspection. If they are not on, they will be disclaimed as not inspected.
- If you are having any specialty testing like lead, mold, water, septic, or pool done try to do these on the same day if the house is occupied. Sellers will thank you for not making too many trips and inconveniencing them.
Real Estate Agents
Now let’s focus on what the real estate agent needs to do before each home inspection. Some buyers may not realize what these people do for you.
- If the inspector has not verified the appointment before 3:00 the day before the inspection, call to verify.
- Help the buyer with getting utilities and the like into normal operating mode. This will allow a more thorough inspection and speed up the sale. It will work out better for you.
- If you will not be attending the inspection, please let the inspector know how to gain access.
- If there are going to be items not operating please call the client and explain this to them, so they may decide whether or not to reschedule the inspection. Most inspectors do not come back a second time for zero fee. Your buyer will be liable for this return fee, and probably upset about it.
I hope everyone can take something from this list and use it. I really do feel bad sometimes when the inspection is limited due to a lack of communication between all parties involved. If any of you have items that you feel should be on this list, please feel free to let me know. I am always willing to listen and learn how others operate.