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The following chart details the predicted life expectancy of household materials and components. 
 
Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, however homeowners often paint more frequently. Surface preparation is likely the most important determiner of paint life expectancy.
 
ADHESIVES, CAULK AND PAINTS
YEAR
Caulking
5-10
Paint  
7
Roofing Adhesives  
15+
 
 
Appliance life expectancy depends to a great extent on the use it receives. Furthermore, consumers often replace appliances long before they become worn out due to changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences. Of a home’s major appliances, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy.
 
APPLIANCES      
YEARS
  --> Air-Conditioners    
8-15
Boilers
20-35
Compactors
6
Dehumidifiers
8
Dishwashers
9
Disposers, Food waste
12
Dryers
13
Exhaust Fans
10
Freezers   
10-20
Furnaces   
15-25
Gas Ovens
10-18
Heat Pumps
16
Humidifiers
8
Microwave Ovens
9
Range/Oven Hoods
14
Electric Ranges
13-15
Gas Ranges   
15-17
Refrigerators
9-13
Washing Machine
5 -15
Water Heaters
10-11
 
 
BATHROOM
YEARS
Cast Iron Bathtub 
50
Fiberglass  Bathtub and Shower
10-15
Shower Door
25
Toilet
50
 
 
Kitchens are in the process of becoming larger and more elaborate, and together with the family room, modern kitchens now form the “great room.”
Great rooms are a place to cook as well as a space where people gather to read, talk, eat, do homework, surf the Internet, and pay bills.
 
CABINETRY & STORAGE   
YEARS
Bath Cabinets 
100+ 
Closet Shelves  100+
Entertainment Centers/Home Office 10
Garage/Laundry Cabinets 100+
Kitchen Cabinets 50
Medicine Cabinets 20+
Modular/Stock Manufacturing Type
50 
 
 
Walls and ceilings last the full lifespan of the home.
 
CEILINGS, WALLS & FINISHES
YEARS
Acoustical Ceiling
100+
Ceiling Suspension    
100+
Ceramic Tile
100+
Standard Gypsum
100+
 
 
Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than they were just a few years ago, are becoming more popular and one can expect them to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a shorter life expectancy, however.
 
COUNTERTOPS
YEARS
Cultured Marble   
20
Natural Stone
100+
Laminate Countertops
20 - 30
Tile
100+
Wood
100+
 
 
Decks are exposed to a wide range of conditions in different climates, from wind and hail in some areas to relatively consistent, dry weather, in others. Under ideal conditions, they have a life expectancy of about 20 years but they can fail much sooner.
 
DECKS
YEARS 
Deck Planks
25
Wood
10-30
 
 
Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house, while vinyl and screen doors have a shorter life expectancy. Closet doors may last a lifetime, but French doors will fail sooner.
 
DOORS
YEARS
Closet (Interior) 
100+
Fiberglass (Exterior) 
100+
Fire-Rated Steel (Exterior)
100+
French (Interior) 
30-50
Screen (Exterior)
40
Vinyl (Exterior) 20
Wood (Exterior)
100+
Wood (Hollow Core Interior)
20 - 30
Wood (Solid Core Interior)
30 - 100+
 
 
Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are durable household components, and engineered trim may last 30 years.
 
ENGINEERED LUMBER
YEARS
Engineered Trim
30
Laminated Strand Lumber
100+
Laminated Veneer Lumber
80+
Trusses
100+
 
 
FIXTURES & FAUCETS
YEARS
Accessible/ADA Products
100+
Enamel Steel Kitchen Sinks
5-10
Faucets
15-20
Modified Acrylic Kitchen Sinks
50
Saunas/Steam Rooms
15-20
Shower Enclosures/Modules
50
Shower heads
100+
Soapstone Kitchen Sinks
100+
Toilets/Bidets
100+
Whirlpool Tubs
20-50
 
 
Natural wood floorings may las as long as the house. Marble, slate, and granite are also expected to last for about 100 years, but require more maintenance. Vinyl floors last up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years, and carpet between 8 and 10 years (with appropriate maintenance and normal traffic).
 
FLOORING
YEARS
All Wooden Floors
100+
Bamboo
100+
Brick Pavers
100+
Carpet
8-10
Concrete
50+
Engineered Wood
50+
Exotic Wood
100+
Granite
100+
Laminate
15-25
Linoleum
25
Marble
100+
Other Domestic Wood
100+
Slate
100
Terrazo
75+
Tile
75-100
Vinyl
25
 
 
Concrete and poured block footings and foundations will last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing of foundations will last about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks it is immediately damaged.
 
FOOTING & FOUNDATIONS
YEARS
Baseboard System
50
Bituminous Coating Waterproofing
10
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Above Ground)
60+
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Below ground)
50 - 60
Concrete Block
100+
Concrete Waste Pipe
100
Poured Footings and Foundations 
100+
Pumps, Sumps, and Wells
5-12
Termite Proofing
12
 
 
Framing and structural systems have extended longevities; poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime. Wall panels and roof and floor trusses will also last a lifetime. Hardboard, softwood, and plywood last an average of 30 years, while OSB and particleboard are expected to last twice that long.
 
FRAMING & OTHER STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS
YEARS
Poured-Concrete Systems
100+
Structural Insulated Panels
100+
Timber Frame Homes
100+
 
 
Garage door openers are expected to last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts will last slightly longer.
 
GARAGES
YEARS
Garage Doors
20-25
Garage Door Openers   
10-15
Light Inserts
20
 
 
Home technology systems have diverse life expectancies. While a built-in audio system will last 20 years, security systems and heat/smoke detectors have life expectancies of 5 to 10 years. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.
 
HOME TECHNOLOGY
YEARS
Built-in Audio
20
Home Automation Systems
100+ 
Security Systems
5-10
Smoke/Heat Detectors 
Less Than 10 
Wireless Home Networks
50+
 
 
Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems require regular maintenance in order to work properly, but even well-maintained systems only last 15 to 25 years. Furnaces, on average, last 15-20 years, heat pumps last 16 years, and air conditioning units last 10-15 years. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats may last 35 years but they are usually replaced before they fail due to technological improvements.
 
HVAC
YEARS
Air Conditioners
10-15
Air Quality Systems
15
Attic Fans
15 - 25
Boilers
13-21
Burners
10+
Central Air Conditioning Unite
12-15
Dampers
20+
Dehumidifiers
8
Diffusers, Grilles, and Registers
25
Ducting
10
DX, Water, Or Steam
20
Electric
15
Electric Radiant Heater 
40
Furnaces
15-20
Heat Exchangers, shell + tube
10-15
Heat Pumps
16
Heat Recovery Ventilators
20
Hot Water or Steam Radiant Heater
40
Induction and Fan-Coil Units
10-15
Molded Insulation
100+
Shell and Tube
20
Thermostats
35
Ventilators 7
Water Heaters
20+
 
 
As long as they are not punctured, cut, or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, cellulose, fiberglass, and foam insulation materials will last a lifetime. This is true regardless of whether they were installed as loose fill, house wrap, or batts/rolls.
 
INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS
YEARS
Batts/Rolls
100+
Cellulose
100+
Fiberglass
100+
Foam
100+
House Wrap
100+
Loose Fill
100+
 
 
Ladders are expected to last a lifetime, but life expectancy of lifts is significantly shorter.
 
JOB SITE EQUIPMENT
YEARS
Ladders
100+
Lifts
8-10
 
 
Copper plated wiring, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls may need to be replaced after 10 years.
 
LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL
YEARS
Accessories
10+
Bare Copper
100+
Copper Clad Aluminum
100+
Copper Plated
100+
Lighting Controls
10+
 
 
Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys, and brick veneers can last the lifetime of a home.
 
MASONRY & CONCRETE   
YEARS
Brick
100+
Sealer Caulking 
2-20
Stone
100+
Veneer
100+
 
 
Custom millwork will last a lifetime, and all stairs – circular and spiral stairs, prebuilt stairs and attic stairs – are expected to last a lifetime.
 
MOLDING & MILLWORK
YEARS
Attic Stairs   
100+
Custom Millwork
100+
Prebuilt Stairs
100+
Stair Parts
100+
Stairs, Circular & Spiral
100+
 
Lifetime of any wood product depend on level of moisture intrusion
PANELS
YEARS
Flooring Underlayment 
25
Hardboard
30
Particleboard
60
Plywood
60
Softwood
30
Oriented-Strand Board
60 
Wall Panels
100+
 
 
The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance. Slate, copper, and clay/concrete roofs have the longest life expectancy while roofs made of asphalt shingles, fiber cement or wood shakes will fail sooner.
 
ROOFING
YEARS
Aluminum Coating
3-7
Asphalt Shingles (3 - tab)
20
Asphalt (Architectural)
30
BUR (Built-up Roof)
30
Clay/Concrete
100+
Coal and Tar
30
Copper
100+
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) Rubber
15 - 25
Fiber Cement
25
Metal
40 - 50
Modified Bitumen
20
Simulated Slate
50
Slate
50+
TPO
7 - 20
Wood
30
 
 
Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, vinyl, engineered wood, stone (both natural and manufactured), and fiber cement will last as long the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on weather conditions. Gutters have a life expectancy of more than 50 years if made of copper and for 20 years if made of aluminum. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more, while aluminum ones will last 30 years.
 
SIDING & ACCESSORIES
YEARS
Aluminum Downspouts
30
Aluminum Gutters   
20
Aluminum/Interior Shutters
10+
Brick
100+
Copper Downspouts
100
Copper Gutters
50+
Engineered Wood
100+
Fiber Cement
100+
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
20
Manufactured Stone
100+
Soffits/Fascias
50
Stone
100+
Stucco
50 - 100
Trim
25
Vinyl 100+
Wood/Exterior Shutters 20
Wood/Interior Shutters 15+
 
 
Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last about 20 years, while underground PVC piping has a lifespan of 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last as long as the house, and asphalt driveways should last between 15 and 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they are recoated; most coatings last 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a swimming pool is expected to last more than 25 years, but the interior plaster and tile have life expectancies of about 10 to 25 years.
 
SITE & LANDSCAPING
YEARS
American Red Clay
100+
Asphalt Driveway
15-20
Asphalt with Acrylic Coating or Cushion
12-15
Brick & Concrete Patios
15-25
Clay Paving
100+
Cleaning Equipment(Swimming Pool)
7-10
Coating
5-7
Concrete Shell (Swimming Pool)
25+
Concrete Walks
40- 50
Controllers
15
Decking(Swimming Pool)
15
Fast-Dry Green Tennis Court 100+
Fast-Dry with Subsurface
100+
Gravel Walks
4-6
Interior Finish( Swimming Pool)
10-35
Polyvinyl Fences 100+
Sprinklers 10-14
Underground PVC Piping 60+
Valves
20
Waterline Tile ( Swimming Pool)
10
 
 
Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years while wooden windows should last nearly 30 years.
 
SKYLIGHTS & WINDOWS
YEARS
Aluminum/Aluminum Clad
15-20
Window Glazing 10+
Vinyl Windows
20 - 40
Wood
30+
Note: Life expectancy varies with usage, weather, installation, maintenance and quality of materials. Items listed as lasting 100+ years, especially those that open and close, often fail prematurely due to misuse or overuse. This list should be used only as a general guideline, not as a guarantee or warranty regarding the performance or life expectancy of any product.
Monday, 13 December 2010 19:45

Inspecting for defects in older buildings

While you can’t predict the lurking dangers in an unfamiliar home, its age offers clues about what you can expect to encounter. Older homes, especially those that have remained in the same hands for much (or all) of their lifetime, are often plagued by a common set of defects that InterNACHI inspectors and potential home buyers may want to learn about.
Some of the more prevalent issues of older homes are as follows.
  • Lead is a toxic metal that was once commonly used in the manufacture of household paint and plumbing fixtures, and as an additive to gasoline. While it has long been prohibited in new construction, lead-based paint and plumbing that weren't removed may present a significant health hazard. Homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint, which can be ingested by small children or contaminate surrounding soil and vegetable gardens. It is easily identifiable by its alligator-like flaking pattern. Lead pipes, too, were used in homes up until the late 1940s, and they may allow lead to leach into drinking water. They can be identified by their dull gray color and the ease by which they can be scratched by keys or coins.
  • Asbestos insulation, which can increase the chances of developing lung cancer and mesothelioma, was used in homes between 1930 and 1950. Asbestos insulation should be left undisturbed until it can be removed by a qualified professional, as its fibers can be inhaled when they are airborne, creating a significant health hazard.Blue asbestos insulation
  • Older homes were not constructed to meet modern energy efficiency requirements. They may suffer thermal losses from single-pane windows, insufficient or compressed insulation, leaking ductwork, and inefficient heaters and other appliances. It should be noted, however, that older homes better capitalize on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation through the use of design features such as exterior shutters, shade trees, and thick, heat-retaining masonry walls.
  • Buried oil tanks were often abandoned and forgotten after homes switched to newer fuel sources. Today, these tanks pose a safety hazard to homeowners and their neighbors, as their contents may leak into surrounding soil. Disposal guidelines vary and may call for removal of the tank or filling it with sand or gravel. Soil testing may be required to investigate whether an abandoned fuel tank has leaked underground.
  • Obsolete electrical components pose a fire and safety hazard, such as:
    • aluminum wiring. From about 1965 to 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes used in place of copper branch-circuit wiring in residential electrical systems due to the escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, weaknesses were discovered in the metal, which led to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. It can be identified by its color or the labels “CO/ALR,” “aluminum” and “AL”;
    • knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring.  This was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings from about 1880 to the 1940s. While codes do not require its removal, K&T wiring often suffers from unsafe modifications, old age, overheating, and lack of a ground wire. It can be identified by its characteristic porcelain insulating tubes;
    • a lack of ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Homes built before the 1970s may not have been equipped with GFCI protection, which guards against overloads, short circuits and ground faults; and
    • a lack of grounded receptacles, which provide a safe path to ground for stray electrical current. Most major appliances, such as stoves, refrigerators and computers, have three-prong plugs and require three-slot or grounded receptacles. Homes in the U.S. built before 1962 were not constructed with three-slot receptacles.
  • Wells, cesspools and septic tanks were commonly used before homes and buildings were connected to public sewer and water systems. If they were abandoned and not removed, these elements pose hazards related to their deterioration and collapse. Wells present a fall hazard
  • Radon is a naturally occurring gas that has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It usually enters the home through cracks in the foundation, a common problem found in vintage construction. Radon cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so concerned homeowners should consult with their InterNACHI inspector about radon testing during their next scheduled inspection.

 

In summary, older construction often suffers from predictable defects and obsolete components. Homeowners may want to enlist the help of their InterNACHI inspector to explore essential upgrades that will eliminate health and safety hazards in their homes.
Article by Nick Gromicko and Rob London, republished with permission from InterNACHI
Monday, 13 December 2010 20:27

Ten Things You Should Know About Mold

  • Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic
    reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
  • There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment;
    the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
  • If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate
    sources of moisture.
  • Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
  • Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60%) to decrease mold growth by:
    1. venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;
    2. using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
    3. increasing ventilation;
    4. and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
  • Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to
    prevent mold growth.
  • Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent
    materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
  • Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows,
    piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
  • In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by
    drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent
    condensation).
  • Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing
    moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
  • Feel free to download this page of tips in a printer-friendly PDF format. Realtors can reproduce it and
    make it part of your real estate information packet.

    Monday, 13 December 2010 20:23

    How To Prepare For a Home Inspection

    When you are in the inspection process of your home buying transaction, there are several items that need to be done before the inspection.  In this article I am going to list and explain these items for a seller, buyer, and real estate agent.  With this information you will be more prepared for your home inspection, thereby helping the inspector perform a more thorough and complete home inspection.

    Home Sellers

    Let’s start off with the sellers’ inspection.  Many homeowners today are having their homes inspected before they are put on the market.  This is a very savvy marketing tool to help your home sell quicker and more profitably.  For your home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.

    • If it happens to be winter and you are in a cold climate zone, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow.  An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
    • Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode.  Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
    • Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way.  You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
    • I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing.  However, please make the inspector will be able access windows, doors, electrical outlets and be able to see the walls and foundation.

    Home Buyers

    Now, if you are a buyer, your list will be a little shorter.  But, it is still just as important to do your homework.  You are paying for the inspection, so stay on top of everything.

    • Once you call the inspector and set a date and time, call your real estate agent and verify this time. Some inspectors do this for you and some don’t. If this is a vacant foreclosure or bank owned property, find out who you need to contact in order to get ALL utilities turned on and into normal operation mode.  Again, inspectors will not turn these items on for you at the time of the inspection.  If they are not on, they will be disclaimed as not inspected.
    • If you are having any specialty testing like lead, mold, water, septic, or pool done try to do these on the same day if the house is occupied.  Sellers will thank you for not making too many trips and inconveniencing them.

    Real Estate Agents

    Now let’s focus on what the real estate agent needs to do before each home inspection.  Some buyers may not realize what these people do for you.

    • If the inspector has not verified the appointment before 3:00 the day before the inspection, call to verify.
    • Help the buyer with getting utilities and the like into normal operating mode.  This will allow a more thorough inspection and speed up the sale.  It will work out better for you.
    • If you will not be attending the inspection, please let the inspector know how to gain access.
    • If there are going to be items not operating please call the client and explain this to them, so they may decide whether or not to reschedule the inspection.  Most inspectors do not come back a second time for zero fee.  Your buyer will be liable for this return fee, and probably upset about it.

    I hope everyone can take something from this list and use it.  I really do feel bad sometimes when the inspection is limited due to a lack of communication between all parties involved.  If any of you have items that you feel should be on this list, please feel free to let me know.  I am always willing to listen and learn how others operate.

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